Wednesday, January 16, 2008

San Miguel On High With Masks

Another view of the Casa de la O courtyard.



Today I set out to do a little exploring. Poking your head into (open) doorways in el centro frequently reveals another amazing courtyard. Most of these building were built as homes and the interior courtyard was the "backyard" gathering place where the neighbors couldn't bother you. Even many of the commercial buildings have courtyards. Do you think this would work in Minnesota?





As I wander around I've been looking at the masonry of these old walls. Hundreds of years old, it looks like they used anything available to fill a hole.




I've also been looking at the fine detail in the cast iron benches you find all over town. The story goes that they were all made by the same guy. He had political connections. He got the contract for the whole city.




The conversation at breakfast has been very interesting. Today, one guest was telling us about the house she is renovating up in the hills above San Miguel. Only it's not any old house, it is the guardhouse for a church and dates back to 1595. A "fixer upper" you might say. The area sounded worth taking a look, so I headed up the hill.




There is some serious real estate being built up there. The second house from the right is for sale, "Se Vende". I didn't write down the realtor's number.



And they get a pretty nice view from on the hill. You pay big for that kind of view. (click on the panoramic to get a better look)




I found the old church, San Jose, but I'm not sure if I saw the guardhouse.



On the way back down I noticed even some lesser properties have a decent view (they gotta do a better job with those wires).



This will probably be one of the next hills to be filled with houses, if they can find enough water in the area.



There down at the bottom to the northeast of el centro I found yet another old church. This was probably way out in the country until relatively recently. It likely just served some nearby farmers.



After all that walking I needed to refuel. I stopped in for comida (late lunch) at the Aurora Food Factory restaurant at the old textile mill turned artist enclave. I had the Asian Pasta. Not fab but very good.



On the way back toward el centro I stopped at this arts & crafts market. I liked the building more than what was inside.



Then I strolled through the Mercado de Artesanias again. Several more venders were open today so this suddenly turned into mask day. I had gotten a couple last year and wanted more. The face inside the animal's mouth ones are particularly interesting to me. I'm not sure if they were ever actually used as masks at the ball or a celebration, but they are hand-made of carved wood and painted. The two smaller Aztec-style ones are just reproductions.




Loaded down, I took a taxi back to B&B. The taxis are great, plentiful, and cheap. $20 pesos will get you anywhere within the center of San Miguel. Last year it took $25 pesos to get up to Maggie & Charlie's house up the hill. Still not bad.

Three of our fellow B&B guests decided to join Maria Teresa and I for dinner tonight. Richard, Richard & Joyce are from Oregon. Their fourth, Joanne, was "under the weather." We went to Café San Francisco for an excellent meal and conversation. You meet some great people here in San Miguel de Allende.

I had the Fajitas Mixtas de Filete de Res y Pollo Acompañadas de Frijoles y Guacamole. Or as we say up north, beef and chicken fajitas with beans and guac. ¡Excellente!



I think tomorrow is going to be a slower day. That hill just took it out of me.

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