More Thoughts on San Miguel de Allende

This was a great & fun visit to San Miguel. Different from the first trip. This time was lacking the wonder of a totally new experience. Now, I arrived and sort of knew my way around. It didn't take long to re-familiarize myself with the town. I still had to use a map, especially when I was in an area I hadn't explored before. Many times I knew the correct route to take. On a couple occasions I even helped other people find their way. NOTE: I thought the best visitor map to use was the one available at the tourist office next to the old municipal building, across from the jardin.

I enjoyed staying at a B&B only four blocks (or so) from the jardin. Other than the climb up Canal to el centro, being close to the center of things was much easier than staying out on the edge of town. Quinta Graciosa, my friends Maggie & Charlie's casa, was a very enjoyable experience last year. However, almost always needing to take the bus or a taxi cut down on casual getting around town. Maggie was right that I would like being close to all that was happening in San Miguel.

Maggie was also right that I would really like stayng at Casa de la O. Lilia is a wonderful, friendly, and welcoming host. The rooms were nice and I felt right at home. Which is only right because it has been Lilia's home for 30-some years. The breakfasts cooked by her staff were delicious and varied. And the conversations around the breakfast table were fab. It seems like everyone became instant friends and all had a good time.

To say the least, the food I ate in San Miguel was terrific. Some meals were better than others, but none disappointed. I'd have to say my favorite restaurants were a tie between Bugamvilia and Pueblo Viejo. If I had stayed longer I don't know if I could have kept up going to great restaurants every night. Next visit I think I'd like to explore some of the more neighborhood-type places.

Both times I've been to San Miguel I have gone on field trips sponsored by Instituto Allende. Not only have they been fun and informative excursions (muchas gracias, Cesar!), but you meet other travelers who become friends during the rest of your stay in town. It's great being in a new place and seeing someone you know walking down the street. Next time, I'd like to go on the overnight trip to Mexico City.

Money exchange is an interesting issue in Mexico. It's pretty easy to keep in mind that it is roughly 10 pesos to the dollar. Actually, it was about 10.7 to 1, but 10 to 1 is easy to compute on the fly. So when you are thinking of buying a beautiful rug for 800 pesos, you think, "Gee, that's not bad for only 80 bucks." On the other hand, when contemplating tipping the band playing at a restaurant, you might think, "I'll give them a twenty." Then you have to remember that a "twenty" in pesos is not even two US dollars. Goes both ways, I guess.

I hope I can get back to San Miguel de Allende sometime soon. Now that I've been there twice in January I'd like to go at a different time of the year. January is rather dry (good for outdoor activities!) but perhaps in the fall after the rainy season would be nice. Maybe in the late spring, or maybe DURING the rainy season. I hear it rains a bit then the sun comes back out. That would be OK. Anyway, sometime soon.

Back Home In Minnesota

I made it back to Minneapolis yesterday only a little late thanks again to bad weather in Houston. It was a long, lousy day of traveling due to the cold I had acquired. And, my left ear would not "pop" during either landing. No fun. I couldn't hear properly and I was a bit off. It got back to normal sometime during the night, but I can still feel some effect.

So the advice is, don't fly with a cold. Use this as an excuse to stay on vacation a few extra days.

UPDATE: The package I had sent from Mexico on Thursday morning showed up today with UPS. That's pretty fast from any location. It now seems that the reason for the high cost of shipping was I got a service somewhat faster than "ground". DUH! Next time maybe I should just ask about what speed they are quoting and request the slowest one. That's pretty basic, I should know that.

The Last Day in San Miguel (this time)

And so I hit the last full day in San Miguel de Allende for this trip. Wish I could stay. Wish I didn't have to go back to the frigid cold that Minnesota is experiencing now. But there will be more trips to take.

My cold, thanks for asking, was a little better this morning. The Mexican version of DayQuil seemed to be helping. Still, I didn't feel like being too active.

This morning was a bit cooler than usual here so I waited awhile before walking up to the jardin. I just wanted to read the paper and soak in the jardin vibes, preferably in the sun. I found Diane & Gayla there and we chatted a bit. They said they met a young woman who told them where the Americans will be gathering to watch the Packers game this evening. Oh well, they can't win them all.

I wandered down to Parque Benito Juarez again, and this time there were some people there unlike last Monday. Looks a lot better with people enjoying this beautiful park.








While walking to and from Parque Juarez I took more pictures of doors. I started to look more at some of the details in the doors. So I guess I'll call this section, The Knockers of San Miguel de Allende.








This isn't a knocker, just an interesting face on a door.



When I got back to the jardin, it was hopping. It's a great place to just hang out any time of the day. And you can get your shoes shined, too.





And there was even a "Mini" car show on the street. These are the original Mini Coopers from the early 60s, and maybe the 50s. Some were right-hand and others were left.





As I was leaving the jardin I was able to get a little going away music.



Back at Casa de la O, I started to get organized and pack for the trip home tomorrow morning. But there was one more fun thing to do. Rebecca & Steve, a couple we met on the Pozos bus tour, invited Maria Teresa and I to their house for dinner tonight. We had a delicious meal and great conversation with new friends. They live in San Miguel full time and it was interesting to hear what it's like to leave the states behind, at least for the duration of Steve's work assignment. They have a lovely home and it was very nice of them to have us over. I'm sure we'll stay in touch.

And so, that's it. I've got to get packed and ready to be picked up at 9am. It's been a great visit to San Miguel. I'll be back.

A Colorful Day Despite the Overcast Sky

Well, I'm sick. No, not THAT kind of sick, fortunately. A thick head, tight chest kind of cold. Kinda takes the edge off the fun. It was still a good day. Chilly but nowhere near what is happening in Minnesota.

First, I'll get to yesterday's purchases. They are both flat enough to go in the suitcase. I'm sure of it. Monarch butterflies are important in Mexico. Their winter migration to the state of Michoacan to protected sanctuaries is a big deal. As far as Old 3-Eye, I'll have to make sure I can't see this at night.




The day began with sending the Oregonites on their way. Nice peeps. Sorry to see them go.

After a bit of reading and hanging out in the B&B courtyard, we went over to the Art Fair at Instituto Allende. They have several of these fairs every year in the Instituto's courtyard. The word is that it has become more commercial in recent years to meet the increased American dollars in San Miguel. I'd say it was a mix of commercial, true craftsmanship, and the same vendors at the Mercado Artesanías.






Commercial or craft, there was a LOT of color at the Instituto Art Fair.








Maria Teresa and I then went over to El Buen Café (recommended by the Kennedy's of Roseville) for lunch. I just had chicken and rice soup, not really photo worthy. The key to this kind of soup here is to squeeze in some lime juice. It really makes the soup. Same thing with some vegetable soup Lilia served at Casa de la O.

We wandered back toward the jardin and found the Casa de la Inquisidor. This is where the official in charge of local Spanish Inquisition matters had his office. Across the street is the building that held the Inquisition jail. It is now a center for handicapped children.



Many of the buildings in San Miguel have devotionals, or what ever is the correct word, on the corners. The different styles are quite interesting. They also sometimes serve as excellent pidgen roosts.






I headed back to the B&B for a little siesta. On the way I stopped in at a farmacia. The woman behind the counter knew what I meant by "DayQuil, non-drowsy". In Mexico, it's Tabcin Active, I hope.

A flower box along the way on Calle Canal.



Later it was time to head out for dinner. Maria Teresa, Diane, Gayla & I went to El Pegaso Café on Calle Corregidora, one block from the jardin. I had the Filet of Red Snapper with garlic butter sauce. Very good. This small café had been recommended on many websites. They were right.



Tomorrow, Sunday, is my last full day in San Miguel de Allende. For this trip, that is.

New Friends in San Miguel

The day started with preparations for the departure Saturday of the new friends from Oregon. Pictures to be taken, contact info to be shared. This is what makes staying at a B&B so much fun. Sitting around the breakfast table in the morning, or hanging out in the courtyard later in the day. You get to know people.

The Ashland Oregon Quartet has been particularly fun to get to know. Lots of laughter, discussions about serious projects, somehow I don't think it will be just a vacation relationship. I want to be there for opening night when OtherRichard finally begins his stand-up career.


Richard, Joyce, Joanne, OtherRichard

The ORs also wanted a shot of the Minnesota/Canada contingent. We had three cameras pointed at us. Which one should I look at? Just like show biz.


Gayla, Diane, Maria Teresa, Petebar

After showing Diane & Gayla where the money exchange office is, I hung out in the jardin reading the papers. It was somewhat busy. Lots of people.






The jardin has four of these fountains that run even in winter. That couldn't be done in Minnesota right now.



And the balloon vendors were out in force.



At 1pm we met at Rincon de Don Tomas across from the jardine. I had the Mole Poblano. That's an excellent hunk of chicken breast under the tasty mole sauce. Quite good.



After lunch we headed over to the Mercado de Artesanias. I bought a couple of thing and I'll show them later.

D, G,& MT took a cab back to Casa de la O, but I did some more wandering on my way back to the jardin. I can't take enough shots of the doors in San Miguel. These three cover the range.






Of course, the afternoon sun looks good on la parroquia.




When I reached my bench-sitting limit, I went back to the B&B. Later, we took Diane & Gayla over to Bugambilia for dinner. It was a great meal last week, and tonight was no letdown. I had the Tinga con Chorizo, which is pork with Mexican sausage in tomato sauce and a bit of chipotle chile, and with saute potatoes. Lacking Negra Modelo, I had the Bohemia Obscura (dark) cerveza. All was um, um good.



After dinner we took a stroll over to the jardine where we listened to the mariachi band play for a bit. We also saw Steve and Rebecca whom we met on the bus tour. Everyone goes to the jardin on a pleasant evening.

Expensive Lesson, Still A Good Day

The day started with a fun breakfast with the Oregon group who are all now feeling better. Then I was off to what turned out to be an expensive lesson.

Those of you who have been following along recall that I left some open room in my suitcases for things that I purchase. The two big wood masks exceeded available space, so I had to ship them home. The bill for packing and shipping via UPS of the five masks and the largest rug came to about $200 USD. Ouch. I don't know if that was a competitive amount or not. I didn't do the research. But the shipping alone was $160 USD. Next time I won't buy anything that I can't take on the plane. Still, it will all look good once I put it up on the walls at home.

Today was meant to be an easy day after yesterday's hike up the hill. It's enough of an uphill walk on Calle Canal just to get to the jardin. So I mostly sat on a bench in the jardin and read the paper. After awhile I needed to get up and move around a bit.

Up Calle Coreo a couple blocks then to the right I saw the Calvario Sanctuary chapel that was built starting in the 1730s. The sign said it served a small community of about one hundred people. The door on the left is a veteranerian clinic.



I saw a couple more interesting doors. The doors are (mostly) amazing here, old and new. The spikes at the top of the second one are actually rain spouts. It must be fun to walk on the sidewalk when it rains, even with an umbrella.




Then there's this old gas pump on Juarez. Just kind of sitting there on the edge of the street. I don't know if it's still working. I hope not. It doesn't look too safe. Could the woman standing next to it be the pump jockey?



Late in the afternoon I went over to the San Antonio neighborhood to meet and visit with a blogger I've been reading since my last trip. Billie Mercer writes the Billieblog at www.billiemercer.blogspot.com She writes about living in San Miguel de Allende, photography, cooking, and many other subjects. Of course, I'm interested in the photography part, but I also really like her posts on life in San Miguel. Real stuff, not what the travel sites tell you about being a tourist. We had a very nice chat about all sorts of things. Anyone interested in San Miguel (and photography) should check out Billie's blog.

I should also add that I had a nice visit with Billie's husband Ned, a.k.a. Nurse Ned as Billie is recovering from a broken ankle. Seems her foot found a hole in the street while she was looking up.

Here's a couple shots from the San Antonio neighborhood. It looked to be a nice working class area. And no, I don't think they call it the Flatiron Building.




And here's the view from Billie & Ned's third level patio. They said at night when all the churches are lit up it is a pretty impressive sight.



My neighbors and good friends Diane & Gayla arrived from Minneapolis at Casa de la O tired and hungry a little after seven. We headed over to Tio Lucas Restaurant with Maria Teresa. I had the Filete a la Tampiqueña with....meat and lots of stuff. Good but not fab. A similar meal at Pueblo Viejo a few days ago was better.



We then took the new kids in town over to the jardin for a quick look. I think they are pretty happy to be here.

San Miguel On High With Masks

Another view of the Casa de la O courtyard.



Today I set out to do a little exploring. Poking your head into (open) doorways in el centro frequently reveals another amazing courtyard. Most of these building were built as homes and the interior courtyard was the "backyard" gathering place where the neighbors couldn't bother you. Even many of the commercial buildings have courtyards. Do you think this would work in Minnesota?





As I wander around I've been looking at the masonry of these old walls. Hundreds of years old, it looks like they used anything available to fill a hole.




I've also been looking at the fine detail in the cast iron benches you find all over town. The story goes that they were all made by the same guy. He had political connections. He got the contract for the whole city.




The conversation at breakfast has been very interesting. Today, one guest was telling us about the house she is renovating up in the hills above San Miguel. Only it's not any old house, it is the guardhouse for a church and dates back to 1595. A "fixer upper" you might say. The area sounded worth taking a look, so I headed up the hill.




There is some serious real estate being built up there. The second house from the right is for sale, "Se Vende". I didn't write down the realtor's number.



And they get a pretty nice view from on the hill. You pay big for that kind of view. (click on the panoramic to get a better look)




I found the old church, San Jose, but I'm not sure if I saw the guardhouse.



On the way back down I noticed even some lesser properties have a decent view (they gotta do a better job with those wires).



This will probably be one of the next hills to be filled with houses, if they can find enough water in the area.



There down at the bottom to the northeast of el centro I found yet another old church. This was probably way out in the country until relatively recently. It likely just served some nearby farmers.



After all that walking I needed to refuel. I stopped in for comida (late lunch) at the Aurora Food Factory restaurant at the old textile mill turned artist enclave. I had the Asian Pasta. Not fab but very good.



On the way back toward el centro I stopped at this arts & crafts market. I liked the building more than what was inside.



Then I strolled through the Mercado de Artesanias again. Several more venders were open today so this suddenly turned into mask day. I had gotten a couple last year and wanted more. The face inside the animal's mouth ones are particularly interesting to me. I'm not sure if they were ever actually used as masks at the ball or a celebration, but they are hand-made of carved wood and painted. The two smaller Aztec-style ones are just reproductions.




Loaded down, I took a taxi back to B&B. The taxis are great, plentiful, and cheap. $20 pesos will get you anywhere within the center of San Miguel. Last year it took $25 pesos to get up to Maggie & Charlie's house up the hill. Still not bad.

Three of our fellow B&B guests decided to join Maria Teresa and I for dinner tonight. Richard, Richard & Joyce are from Oregon. Their fourth, Joanne, was "under the weather." We went to Café San Francisco for an excellent meal and conversation. You meet some great people here in San Miguel de Allende.

I had the Fajitas Mixtas de Filete de Res y Pollo Acompañadas de Frijoles y Guacamole. Or as we say up north, beef and chicken fajitas with beans and guac. ¡Excellente!



I think tomorrow is going to be a slower day. That hill just took it out of me.

Shopping Walking Reading Eating Listening

Today started out by saying goodbye to new friends Victoria and Gianna as they took the bus back to Mexico City, Victoria's home. Gianna will continue on to Indiana for a birthday celebration, then home to Las Vegas. Maria Teresa was feeling better this morning so she headed over to the Instituto for her painting class.

I went over to the Mercado de San Juan de Dios a block away from Casa de la O. It was mostly a food and clothing market, not what I was interested in. On the way to another market, I stopped at Templo de San Juan de Dios, which is right behind the B&B.



Along the way I noticed these two fine establishments. I've been told they are not intended for the gringo tourist trade.




I walked over to the Mercado de Artesanias on Calle Colegio. In addition to food and other necesities, they have many arts & crafts vendors. I bought a few things there last year.




I wound up getting 3 rugs from 2 different vendors. These are from the Oaxaca region and very finely made (not sure if they are hand or machine-made, I suspect hand-made with machine assistance). The total came to $1650.00 pesos, or about $152.00 USD. This is why I left extra room in my luggage for the return trip.



With new rugs in hand I went to the jardin to catch up on the news with an english language paper from Mexico City. Being San Miguel does not make the news more charming.



The iron benches in the jardin look great but I can only last about an hour. So I walked back to the B&B to drop off the rugs. The bouganvilla out front looked pretty good in the sun.



Then back to the jardin to meet up with Maria Teresa and to head over to La Azotea (the rooftop) again for dinner. Not a sunset yet but the view is great. (A nod to Maggie as I am just trying to duplicate her image from the same spot.)



I had the Chapata de Arrachera, which is chapata bread with arrachera (flank) beef and cheese, plus fries. Probably the best beef sandwhich I've ever had. Oh, and the Negra Modelo was good, too.



After dinner we went over to Bellas Artes for a lecture by Diana Anhalt. She is the author of the book "A Gathering of Fugitives: American Political Expatriates in Mexico 1948-1965." In 1950 when she was 8, her parents abruptly moved from New York to Mexico City. They never told her exactly why, but her father was involved with the communist party in America. During the McCarthy era, many Americans fled to Mexico. Some didn't stay long, but Anhalt's parents lived in Mexico until their last few years. Very interesting.