Sunday, January 13, 2008

Slow Sunday

After the long, busy day yesterday, a slower pace was called for today. Didn't really get going 'til about noon.


This is the hallway outside my room.


Casa de la O's courtyard fountain.


The bouganvilla are in bloom out in front of the B&B.


The jardin was crowded and busy which is typical for a warm Sunday. I don't think the balloon vendors did such a good business as they seemed to still have plenty later in the evening.



A group of young dancers were performing indigenous routines while the group in the center seemed to be making an offering to the church in front of them. I heard them called Apaches. Apparently, the Apache tribe was in Mexico in addition to Arizona.


These guys kept a pretty good beat. Easy to dance to, as Dick Clark would say.

We took a taxi over to La Aurora, a refurbished former textile factory with artist studios and high-end decor shops. Most were closed on a Sunday, but it looked like an interesting place to browse. Then it was time for an early dinner.



Oh, and what a dinner it was at Pueblo Viejo on Umaran, just off the jardine. I had the Tampiqueha-style Beef Filet described as served with an enchilada in green sauce, an Enmolada (another enchilada with mole sauce), beans, and guacamole. Damn, it was good. And Negra Modelo was in the house, too.


But what everybody flipped for was the Molecajete de Arrachera that Gianna ordered. Too much for one person, she shared. Served piping hot in the bowl that kept it warm, "strips of fine beef in green sauce served with Mexican sausage, avocado, cactus leaf, and grilled fresh cheese." The chunks of beef seasoned with the green sauce were amazing.

All together, the bill came to $1000 pesos, including drinks and tip. That's $250 pesos each, or about $23.37 USD. Not a bad deal!

We went out to the jardin to walk it off but preferred to stand and watch the Aztec dancers now performing in the plaza in front of la parroquia.




The Aztecs were followed by a dance school group that was not very entertaining, except of course, to their friends and family. After that, a disco street dance on the plaza was competing sound-wise with a Souza band in the jardin gazebo. It was time to go.



You can never take too many shots of San Miguel's iconic la parroquia (parish) church. It takes light in many interesting ways.

Instituto Allende Field Trip to Pozos

Yesterday's field trip with the Instituto to Pozos and other areas was a great but long day. Too tired last night to post. This morning is a more relaxed time before heading out for activities. The B&B was full last night and everybody noticed the fireworks going off nearby way too early in the morning. Lilia, our host, says there is always a party going on in San Miguel. Other than that, it's pretty quiet here.



Our first stop on the bus trip was to a viewpoint over a valley of the Sierra Gorda mountains. Lots of history here (as is everywhere). Cesar, our guide, did a very good job of telling the stories of history. This valley was a central area in the bloody Cristero Rebellion of 1926-29 when the federal government was trying to remove the church from official government. They eventually succeded with great resistance from the Catholics. And again, the landscape is very similiar to northern Arizona.



The next stop was in another valley with a past and present history of shamanistic ceremonys. We climbed up (with much difficulty) into these rocks to view some ancient petroglyph paintings. The shamans still use them for spiritual use. Unfortunately, in one spot, some idiot hacked out the image of the sun that balanced the nearby image of a bad shaman. Now, of course, it's not a place you want to be at night without the real sun to counter the bad shaman.

This was interesting history to listen to but I gotta say, having seen many incredible petroglyphs in the U.S. southwest, these were not that impressive. Still, I won't go there again after dark.


We encountered this local resident along the way. He asked to join the tour but there were no burro accomodations on the bus.



Then it was time for lunch in Mineral de Pozos at Los Famosos de Pozos. I had the Sopa Azteca and Enchiladas Verdes con Pollo. As good as it looks. And of course, there was a Negra Modelo involved.




Pozos is an old mining town that nearly became a ghost town, but is now on the way back up. They say it's like San Miguel was 60 to 70 years ago. Lots of crumbling buildings, but the church and others have been kept up by the small population that still lives there.


Things are on the way up in Pozos. There are 3 fancy hotels and some good restaurants. This one is Posada de las Minas. Looks like a nice place to stay, but there isn't much else to do in town.


There is also a growing artist community in Pozos. These are four residents we encountered (OK, they are actually large puppet figures). We were also entertained by a group of musicians playing traditional folk instruments that were all hand-made. Drums, various flutes, sounds, and percussion. Very good.


Maria Teresa and friend Don Quixote in Pozos.



Our last stop was at the old mining complex. Begun in the late 1500s and closed in 1934. This was an incredibly lucrative mining area. Unfortunately, the Spanish used all slave labor when they operated the mines. Thousands died here, and you can't help but think of them when you are walking around. The 3 towers are the hearths used for processing the ore over intense fires. The structures are 400 years old. The towers still stand because the intensity of the fires hardened the limestone. The rest of the buildings are all in a state of ruin. The main big shaft hole is open and unprotected. Cesar tossed a big rock down to see how long it would take. About 4 seconds and a couple engineers in the group calculated that as about 1000 feet down.

At this point it was getting too dark to take more pictures. Too bad, as I could have filled a memory card with shots of all the old buildings.


As we were about to leave, Ceasar pointed out the big house of the big boss of the operation. At 400 years old it was also a fortress that could view the valley for invaders. The caretaker invited us into this pitch black house into the dining room so we could sit around the dining room table with candle lighting like the old days. I guess my camera has a pretty good flash on it.

The house and mining area was used extensively for a battle scene in the TV film And Starring Pancho Villa As Himself starring Antonio Banderas. I'll have to put that on my Netflix list.


The sunset at the mining complex was a fitting end (except for the bus ride back to San Miguel) to a great day. We had a quick snack at Hecho en Mexico near the Instituto (too tired for a food shot) and got back to Casa de la O about 10pm. A very long day.

Friday, January 11, 2008

First Full Day in San Miguel

I got up early to walk up to the jardin before breakfast. A definite advantage of staying in San Miguel's el centro. The food and conversation at breakfast was excellent.


Here's a better shot of the front of Casa de la O on Calle Indio Triste.


And here are las tres amigas as we were heading out for the day. We took a taxi over to Instituto Allende to get our tickets for the Victoria/Pozos field trip. Maria Teresa and I will go to Pozos, and Victoria and Gianna will take a private tour to Guanajuato. MT also signed up for some art classes at the Instituto. She could not convince me to take a mask making class.


Even the hallway ceilings have been painted by the students. This is everywhere.



Behind the main Instituto building where they have the classrooms, there is a garden area to show student scupture.


Religious icons are everywhere, and they have pretty elaborate street signs.


Lunch at Cafe de Jardin was tacos de pollo. Looked so good I forgot to take a picture before digging in. The green sauce was excellent.


Good friend Meg G asked me to pick up a mask for her. I'll have to go back a couple times and make a decision.


This is the original civic plaza that was the center of social life in San Miguel before the jardin was developed many years ago. That's General Ignacio Allende, hero of the 1810 war for independence from Spain, up on the horse. They love their heroes here in Mexico.


Then it was back to Casa de la O for siesta before dinner. This is a shot of the courtyard.



Dinner was at Bugambillia Restaurant on Hidalgo. An excellent find with help from the internet. The food was fantastico. Las tres amigas all had the house specialty, chiles en nogada. I had shrimp stuffed with cheese, wrapped in turkey bacon, and a very rich tasty sauce. Oh my! This was followed by the wait staff singing happy birthday to Gianna. It's a time like this that I remember the wise, old Goranson family saying, "You don't go on vacation to save money or lose weight." Indeed.

Tomorrow, the bus field trip to Victoria to see some petroglyphs, and to the former mining town of Mineral de Pozos which is turning into an artists area.

Thursday, January 10, 2008

I Made It!

A little late, but I made it to San Miguel!


It wasn't the best travel day, but far from the worst. My 7am flight out of MSP was delayed because they had to change planes. (I didn't mind being at the airport so early when I saw passengers get OFF a flight at 6:45am.) We left about 30 minutes late, making the connection in Houston a bit tighter. No worry. When I got to Houston the flight to Leon was posted for a hour later, then left another half hour after that. Fortunately, the van transport to San Miguel was still waiting for me.


The BJX airport between Leon & Guanajuato is new and very nice. Seems Vicente Fox, former president of Mexico and former governor of the state of Guanajuato, thought an airport would be good for the region. It also means avoiding a four-hour bus trip to San Miguel from Mexico city.



The high desert landscape I saw on the way to San Miguel reminded me of the area surrounding Prescott, AZ, where my parents lived for many years. San Miguel, like Prescott, is over a mile high.


I arrived in San Miguel to Casa de la O close to sunset. Better picures will follow. Maria Teresa and her friends Victoria and Gianna came back fro their comida (late lunch) soon after I got there. Great to see MT again and meet her friends. No time for a photo, I needed to get some food. So I headed out toward el jardin (the plaza) and Pueblo Viejo where I had a couple good meals last year.


This was the view from the second floor deck cafe called La Azotea. It was like paparazzi as everyone was angling for a shot of the sunset. Not a bad spot for dinner.


Food is gonna be a big deal on this trip. This is the Pueblo Tacos, with arrachera, pork, and Mexican sausage tacos with green sauce. Excellente! The Negra Modelo speaks for itself.


On the way back from dinner la parroquia (the main parish church) was all lit up as usual.


And mariachi bands were serenading in el jardine. Several bands roam around, but I just listened to this one for awhile.

When I got back to Casa de la O, I sat for a bit and chatted with MT (Mexican living in Canada), Victoria (Mexican), Gianna (Italian), and me (American) talking politics. Different view points. This is going to be interesting.

All in all, a darn good start to this trip.

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Off to San Miguel de Allende



I'm off to San Miguel de Allende in Mexico again on Thursday the 10th through the 21st. This time, since Maggie & Charlie's casa is booked with a long-term renter, I'll be staying at the B&B Maggie has recommended, Casa de la O. Also staying at the B&B will be good friend Maria Teresa from last year's trip. Plus, two of my neighbors, Diane & Gayla, will arrive on the 17th.

On Saturday the 12th, I'll be going on another field trip sponsored by Instituto Allende, the art institute. This time going to Mineral de Pozos and Victoria. Pozos is an old mining town that took a downturn but is now coming back up as an artist enclave.

In addition to a lot of walking around and eating good food, I'll be taking lots of photos. If I'm not too distracted by cerveza y siesta, I hope to post daily updates to this photo blog. Check back often!

¡Hasta luego!

P.S. See the photos from last year HERE

Friday, January 4, 2008

Neil!!



Yikes!! How could I forget a favorite-photo shot of Neil Young at Northrop Auditorium on November 8th, 2007. Definitely the concert highlight of my year. It was the best show of the nineteen times I've seen Neil since CSNY in Chicago on December 13, 1969.

An excellent source of Neil Young news and information is over at Thrasher's Wheat:

http://www.thrasherswheat.org/wheatfield.html

Thursday, January 3, 2008

2007 Fave & $$ Pix

End of the year lists are everywhere. So why not here?

I'd have to say my favorite photos from 2007 are the ones taken on my trip to San Miguel de Allende in January. Can't pick just one so I'll use the composite. I'll be adding more to the Mexico collection in January 2008.



The trip to Oregon in May yielded some good shots, too. First the cousins reunion in Bend with Scott, Marg, Lucia, Betsy, and myself was lots of fun. Then, a too-quick drive up a small portion of the northern coast was spectacular.


Photo by one of Jen's brothers with my camera

Another super event was Brian & Jen's wedding day in October. "Real Happy" would be a good way to describe everyone.


I got together several times with old (make that long-time) friends from Chanhassen Dinner Theater days. I've know some of these peeps for over 27 years ever since I first worked the strike for Annie Get Your Gun at Chan in 1980. David & Susan have returned to the warm south. We will have to soldier on without them. Chinese New Year, anyone?



And finally, the most expensive picture of the year 2007. That's almost $8000.00 of new boiler on the left. $4850 for the boiler itself. $1340 for asbestos abatement. And $1550 for a new chimney liner. Still, the old one, dating possibly to when the house was built in 1924, had to go. Warm but poorer this winter. Let's hope the heating bill is significantly less.

Happy New Year!